How to choose the right wire
In the previous blog I looked at the history of crochet and its remarkable journey into the fashion world, influencing everything from haute couture to accessories like jewellery and handbags.
Crocheting with wire is a captivating blend of traditional techniques and contemporary creativity, allowing artisan jewellery makers to craft exquisite and intricate pieces. At the heart of this process is the choice of the right wire. Take a moment to think about it…the colour, the thickness and the lustre of the wire will have a huge impact on the overall aesthetic appeal of the piece. Yes, embellishments will further add interest, elegance and style, but the wire itself serves as the essential backbone, setting the foundation for a stunning piece.
Allow me to walk you through the different types of wire I use in my designs:
1. Copper Wire
Copper is a versatile classic choice for artisans not only due to its flexibility and affordability, but also its beautiful warm colour. Its malleability makes it easy to work with, thereby offering opportunities to make quite intricate designs. It also holds its shape pretty well and will not break easily.
Copper wire is available in various gauges (diameter sizes) making it ideal for experimenting in both delicate and bolder designs. Its natural reddish-gold tone pairs extremely well with earthy stones such as agate, jasper, tiger’s eye and raw quartz crystals.
However, unless copper has been treated to render it tarnish resistant, it will naturally develop a patina over time - a green or brown film produced by oxidation. Some people really like this somewhat aged look, whilst others prefer a polished appearance, which can be maintained with regular cleaning.
2. Silver Plated and Gold Plated Copper Wire -Affordable Elegance
Silver and gold plating copper wire is created by coating a copper core with a very thin layer of either silver or gold (the thickness of the plating can range between 1 to 40 microns).These wires are a great choice to achieve the look of precious metals at a far lower cost. Their use is ideal for fashion jewellery, but be aware that with frequent use and especially exposure to moisture and skin oils, the plating can wear off. Proper care involves avoiding water and storing pieces in a dry place.
We supply pieces of jewellery made using silver or gold plated wire in a jewellery box containing a cleaning cloth and an anti-oxidising patch as well as care instructions to help you prolong its lifespan.
3. Gold Filled and Silver Filled Copper Wire – A step up in Quality
Gold-filled and Silver-filled copper or brass wires are superior alternatives to gold or silver plated wires.
Gold filled wire has to contain, by law, 5% or 1/20 of gold by weight and is also known as rolled gold. The wire I use is made of a solid brass core over which 14K gold is mechanically bonded using high pressure.
Filled silver wire, also known as silver overlay, uses Sterling silver mechanically bonded to a solid copper core. The filled silver wire used in my pieces contains 10% or 1/10 of silver by weight.
These wires are ideal for pieces that will be worn often and cherished for years, offering a long-lasting and elegant look at a fraction of the cost of pure precious metals, and a quality that is superior to the plated versions. Furthermore, due to the manufacturing process and the thickness of the gold or silver layer, it will not peel or flake off and lasts for years if properly cared for.
4. Sterling Silver and Fine Silver Wire
Sterling silver wire is made of 92.5% pure silver mixed with 7.5% other metals, usually copper. By comparison, fine silver wire is 99.9% pure silver and only 0.1% other metals. As a result, fine silver is softer, but also due to its purity, doesn’t really tarnish. Whilst it may be too soft in traditional jewellery, it works well for wire crochet purposes and has an exquisite sheen.
Sterling silver may tarnish slightly more than fine silver over time, but they can both be easily cleaned and regular cleaning will keep them looking pristine.
5. Gold-plated Sterling Silver
Also known as Gold Vermeil, is sterling silver coated with a thick layer of gold, usually 2.5 microns thick. The layer of gold is applied via an electrochemical process called “electroplating” and it can last for years being far superior to gold plated copper.
Gold vermeil is durable and offers a rich, warm glow, ideal for elegant crochet designs meant to last. When choosing between gold-filled wire and gold vermeil, it often comes down to personal preference. Gold-filled wire features a thicker layer of gold but is bonded to a base metal, usually brass, while gold vermeil uses a sterling silver core, adding an extra touch of refinement.
In conclusion, experimenting with different types of wire when designing jewelry using the age-old tradition of crochet is truly exciting. I always consider the overall look I would like to achieve, the type of embellishments I plan to use, and the longevity of each piece. Copper wire is perfect for bohemian and casual designs, while sterling silver and gold-filled or gold vermeil wires can elevate modern wire crochet jewellery to heirloom-quality creations. I hope this blog has sparked your interest and given you a deeper appreciation of my jewellery collection, offering insight into the materials and techniques behind each piece. Additionally, I hope it has provided a clearer understanding of how the type of wire used influences the pricing of the jewellery.
This necklace showcases the use of two different wires: gold-plated and silver-plated copper wire. Even without any embellishments, the piece is striking and effortlessly eye-catching, making it a perfect accessory for any occasion. It will look stunning paired with a simple T-shirt for a casual daytime look or with a minimalist evening outfit for added elegance.
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